 |
PARADISE: The beach stretching into the
distance is made for
holidaymakers.
|
ON THE ALTAR OF SPRING BREAK
First published on 20/4/2005
RYAN ANGLEM discover ancient ruins among a favourite Spring Break
destination in Mexico.
The Yucatan peninsular of Mexico contains the best-preserved
ruins of the ancient Mayan culture in the country, some of the best
beaches on the Caribbean, great examples of colonial Spanish
architecture and a purpose-built holiday resort that fills every
spring with US college kids on their Spring Break holiday.
This is where I was escaping the snow and cold of London to go to
explore and, having recently rented The Real Cancun on DVD, I felt I
was more than prepared for what was in store during the next eight
days.
Cancun, the resort created specifically for tourism by the
Mexican government in the 1970s is next to a lagoon on a beautiful
spit of land bordered by the Caribbean – and is where my plane
touched down.
After meeting up with a couple of mates, I climbed in our rental
car the next day and departed inland. The destination for the day
was the state capital of Merida about 300km west, but our stomachs
dictated that a stop in Valladolid – a small colonial city about
halfway along the route – was necessary.
Here we found street vendors selling tacos and for the princely
sum of 12 pesos (about 65p) each, we procured enough to more than
fill the empty spaces and were ready to get back on the road.
Merida contains some classic colonial Spanish architecture
surrounding the Plaza Mayor or main square, which contains a
cathedral and the state government buildings, but it is also home to
the best markets and craftwork in the region. Many specialist shops
sell hammocks, rugs and similar goods at prices infinitely lower
than the more touristy towns on the coast. We explored the city that
day and at night had a meal of the local specialties sopa de lima (a
kind of lime soup) and pollo pibil (barbecued chicken wrapped in
banana leaves) with the usual accompaniment of tortilla chips,
refried beans and guacamole.
The next day we were back on the road early with the aim of
beating all the coach loads of tourists to the Mayan ruins at Cichen
Itza. It was a wise decision as after we had exhausted ourselves
exploring the ruins the number of people in the area had more than
tripled.
The ruins here include the enormous pyramid, El Castillo, which
aligns itself perfectly with the autumn and spring solstices, a
platform where human sacrifices were made (now closed to the public)
and ball courts – arenas where the result of games had deadly
consequences. It was originally thought the losers of the games
played in the ancient ball courts would have their heads removed,
but some evidence now suggests the winners were the ones to die –
such was the ancients’ reverence of death and beliefs of
afterlife.
After absorbing some of the historical aspects of the region it
was time to head towards the beach town of Tulum and be booked into
a cabana on the beach.
Tulum is the closest town to the Sian Ka’an National park, a
reserve of marine area and wetlands that contains a massive amount
of flora and fauna both on and offshore. It has been designated as a
World Heritage site and it was here that we decided to spend a day
on a tour, which involved reef snorkelling and exploration through
the park by jeep and boat.
Although there are few phone lines and limited electricity (our
cabana’s power went off at 11pm), Tulum is progressing with more
upmarket accommodation being built and prices following the more
exclusive destinations up the coast. One of the new establishments,
‘M’, was built by a New Zealand couple from Hamilton, who started a
weekly dance party with DJs imported from Ibiza. Although the place
has only been open a few months it’s already become a weekly ritual
for travellers and locals alike.
After a couple of days on the beach it was time to go to see why
more than 2 million people visit Cancun every year and following a
few hours drive north we arrived in Spring Break party central – and
if you want to know more get to your local video store to hire The
Real Cancun.
<<< Back to
Travel |